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External Effects on Aging
Aging is both inevitable and continuous, making it one of the leading concerns for clients. Today people are more concerned with healthy aging and prevention than trying to repair damage after the fact. With that focus in mind, it is vital that we keep our clients properly educated. Although some aspects of aging are out of our control, it is important to put an emphasis on what we can control. There are two primary factors that cause aging: intrinsic and extrinsic. Intrinsic aging is how the skin changes over time, regardless of environmental factors. Genetics play a large role in this process and those cannot be altered. Genetics can be related to the loss of subcutaneous fat and the reduction of collagen and elastin. Physiology is also a part of the intrinsic aging process. This can be related to expression lines from smiling and loss of elasticity from gravity. If intrinsic aging were to occur without exposure to external elements, the skin would still lose volume due to the reduction in subcutaneous fat. Loss of structure from collagen and elastin and the effects of gravity would result in loose or sagging skin. Fine lines and wrinkles would appear in areas of facial expression. However, the skin would remain smooth without keratosis, pigmented lesions, hypopigmentation, telangiectasia, and damaged collagen and elastin leading to deeper, more pronounced wrinkles. Approximately 85% of the changes we see in our skin come from external factors or extrinsic aging. Sun exposure, smoking, lifestyle, pollution, and diet are all factors that are enough to make a significant difference in whether a person will have the same skin conditions as another member of their family or not. Knowing the factors associated with aging skin and the damaging effects they produce is essential in learning to prevent it. UV Exposure Ultraviolet radiation from direct sunlight, is the most prevalent extrinsic factor. When UV light reaches the skin, some is reflected by skin cells and oil. Light that is not reflected enters the epidermis, where some of it is absorbed by melanin. Fitzpatrick skin types I–III have little absorption due to the low amount of melanin present, while types IV–VI will absorb more UV. UV that is not absorbed may affect protein, DNA, and other structures of the epidermis. UV also creates damage to Langerhans cells, which greatly affects the immune system and can lead to skin cancer. UV rays that enter the dermis can damage collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), leading to accelerated skin damage. Smoking Smoking replaces oxygen with carbon monoxide which decreases the amount of oxygen available for the body to function properly. Cigarette smoke is not only a mixture of chemicals with carcinogenic and toxic potential, but also contains stable free radicals, reactive oxygen species (ROS), and gaseous free radical species.1 This leads to asphyxiation, a slowdown of cell turnover, and reduced circulation which result in a dry, dull, gray appearance. Cigarette smoke also triggers the production of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), which are enzymes responsible for the breakdown of collagen and elastin. Diet It is now known that diet can affect the appearance of the skin. It only makes sense that the largest organ of the body would show what is happening inside. Those with diets high in fat, sugar, and complex carbohydrates experience increased blood sugar levels rapidly after each meal. This provides a short energy boost but soon follows with a fall in blood sugar levels. This rapid drop results in fatigue and hunger. This vicious cycle is unhealthy and leads to long-term inflammation and cell injury. Excess sugar also affects collagen fibers though a process called glycation, which causes the skin to appear yellow and look older.2 Excessive alcohol consumption can also trigger this process and lead to dehydration and slowed cellular turnover. Stress Stress is another factor that can affect the skin. Cortisol, known as the stress hormone which produces the flight or fight response, is beneficial in small amounts. Increased cortisol levels for extended periods of time can lead to many problems including glycation which is responsible for a breakdown of collagen and elastin. Compromised immunity and impaired barrier function can leave the skin open to external invaders and transepidermal water loss. Additionally, a decrease in blood flow and cell turnover can result in a dull, tired appearance. Sleep deprivation is also associated with these conditions, as it raises stress levels in the body. To a certain extent, we can manage some extrinsic factors of aging skin. UV exposure being the most prevalent and dangerous, can be prevented with antioxidants, sunscreen, and avoiding prolonged sun exposure. When it comes to smoking, the answer is simple, quit or don’t start. This will allow proper circulation and oxygenation for healthy skin. Diet management isn’t quite as simple. The abundance of inexpensive, unhealthy food can be an obstacle for consumers when trying to make healthier choices. Following a nutrient-filled diet is essential for a healthy body and skin. Stress is going to be the hardest to manage. With the current climate, most people are experiencing heightened levels of stress. Advising clients to explore exercise, yoga, or meditation can result in a reduced stress level, as well as healthier looking skin. Topical products are an essential aid when managing extrinsic aging. An emphasis on ingredients including retinoids, antioxidants, peptides, and sunscreens will result in the optimal health of the skin. Remember, the skin can be a direct reflection of how we care for our bodies. References A Valavanidis et al, Tobacco smoke: Involvement of reactive oxygen species and stable free radicals in mechanisms of oxidative damage, carcinogenesis and synergistic effects with other respirable particles, Intl J Environ Res Public Health, 6 (2), 445–462 (2009). 2. P Gkogkolou and M Böhm, Advanced glycation end products: Key players in skin aging? Dermatoendocrinol, 4 (3), 259-270 (2012)
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Suds and Surfactants
Cleansing is a basic step of any skin care routine, but not all cleansers are created equal. It is important to understand the types of cleansing agents available for suitable recommendations. It is well- known that if we don’t cleanse away the impurities that accumulate on the skin it could lead to congestion, acne lesions, and a dull appearance. During the day we are exposed to external factors including pollution, touching our face with dirty hands, sunscreens, makeup, etc. Cleansing twice a day will help keep the skin in a healthy state and allow the full benefit of topical products. There are many challenges to getting effective topical ingredients into the skin. In addition to the skin’s effective barrier, oils, dirt, and makeup can all impede product absorption. Surfactants, which stands for surface active agents, are used in cleansers to reduce this build-up. Surfactants:Surfactants are most used for cleansing, foaming, and emulsifying; they can also be used for solubilizing, delivery enhancement, thickening, antimicrobial effects, and more. Surfactants have a hydrophilic (attracted to water) head and a hydrophobic/ lipophilic (detracted from water, attracted to lipids) tail. The lipophilic tail is attracted to and surrounds dirt, makeup, and oils. Essentially the tails form around the impurities and encapsulate them. With traditional cleansers, the hydrophilic heads contact water and pull the impurities off the surface of the skin and into the solution to be washed away. There are four types of surfactants with varying properties. Anionic SurfactantsAnionic surfactants are often the primary cleansing agent in washes due to their ability to lather well. They have negatively charged ions that help to lift and suspend the dirt and oil into micelles. Anionic surfactants are known to be the best foaming agents and are often on the less expensive side. The downside to anionic surfactants is they are harsher making them potentially more irritating. For this reason, they are often combined with non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants to reduce irritation and increase lather.Examples: Sodium lauryl sulfate, Ammonium lauryl sulfate, Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate Non-ionic surfactantsNon-ionic surfactants are most commonly used as emulsifiers and solubilizers. They have no charge which means they can be used with any other surfactant. They don’t foam well on their own like anionic surfactants do, but that doesn’t stop them from emulsifying oils. They are known for being gentler, yet more expensive. They are commonly used in baby and facial products. Some non-ionic surfactants can also be in non-foaming and low-foaming formulations.Examples: Coco glucoside, decyl glucoside, glyceryl stearate Cationic Surfactants:Cationic surfactants are often used as emulsifiers, as they blend water and oil well. They are positively charged, which means they can’t be mixed with anionic surfactants due to their opposite polarity. There are varying types of cationic surfactants. Cationic detergents are typically harsh. On the other hand, cationic surfactants used in conditioners smooth the hair, as the positive charge is attracted to the negative wet hair.
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Undereye Concerns
Top concerns for the eye area are the appearance of dark circles and puffiness. These are two different culprits but can occur together. Dark circles can appear for several reasons, mainly hyperpigmentation, vascularity, and shadowing. Dark circles are often genetically inherited in darker skin types. As with their areas of pigmentation, the eyes can get darker with inflammation including sun exposure and frequent rubbing of the eyes, often seen in those with allergies. There is no real treatment for inherited dark circles, although some improvement can be seen with skin lightening products, chemical exfoliation, and laser treatments, similar to that seen with other pigment issues. Another cause for dark circles is collections of blood beneath the delicate skin of the eye. This can be caused by genetics or triggered by allergies and is correlated to the leakage of blood from small capillaries. The pooled blood is more noticeable around the eyes due to the thinner skin; furthermore, as skin ages it loses fat that may have once concealed the vessels. An underlying cause of both bags and dark circles under the eyes during allergy season is a histamine response. When edema sets in, the pressure can cause capillaries to enlarge and/or burst, which is why on a day with a high allergen count, a person may look like they have not slept. If allergens are the suspected culprit, an antihistamine may be beneficial. One, not so obvious, cause of dark circles, is shadowing that can occur from hollowing around the eyes. A major contributing factor to aged skin is the loss of subcutaneous fat, which is even more apparent in the eye area. Medical providers can reduce this shadowing with the use of soft tissue fillers; this technique requires much skill and is typically done by an injection specialist. Fillers often last at least nine months, making them a good option for those who are not ready for a surgical procedure. If a client is not ready for any medical procedure, the use of camouflage makeup seems to be the next best thing.Highlighting the shadowed areas and contouring the area around the hollow can make a big difference. Moderate to severe puffiness or bags under the eyes are most commonly caused by excess fat. For this reason, the eyes should be analyzed thoroughly, instead of giving false hope that a topical treatment or simply getting a good night’s sleep may work. It is unfortunate that some cosmetic retailers and skin care providers inadvertently sell eye creams promising to reduce the pockets surrounding the eyes without considering the condition’s cause. When a collection of fat is the cause, surgery is the only option for resolution. Mild puffiness can be caused by allergies, lack of sleep, or water retention; these conditions can be improved with the use of topical products. Regardless of the severity, swelling underthe eyes should be examined by a clinical provider before product or treatment regimens are suggested. To improve the overall appearance of the eyes, it is beneficial to keep the skin in the area in its most healthy state. Products containing vitamins A, C, E, and peptides should be used to improve the overall appearance of the eye area. Vitamin A is known as a skin normalizer as it normalizes all its healthy functions. Vitamin A thickens the skin and reduces the over-production of pigment. Vitamin C is essential for collagen production and has skin brightening properties. Vitamin E is a powerful antioxidant that also boosts the effects of vitamin C. There are several peptides available that carry out various functions. Signal peptides that trigger the effects of collagen production are most used. Products for the eye area should also have a hydrating base to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Dark circles and puffy eyes are two conditions that are difficult to manage, but with the right advice and proper product usage under eye concerns can be improved.
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Managing Melanin
Hyperpigmentation, a discoloration of the skin that shows up as dark spots or patches, is a concern for many people. It can be caused and triggered by various factors such as inflammation, hormonal response, and sun exposure. There are three main types of hyperpigmentation that manifest in different ways. Melasma, sometimes referred to as chloasma or pregnancy mask, shows up as dense areas of pigment in the central third of the face. Sun-induced pigmentation is more sporadic and presents as spotty discolorations commonly seen on areas of excessive sun exposure including the bridge of the nose, cheeks, and forehead. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) develops from trauma to the skin and is associated with inflammation. Regardless of the type of pigment, it all starts with a process known as melanogenesis, which produces melanin to protect the skin. The process of melanogenesis is complex. First of all, the cell that is responsible for producing melanin is the melanocyte. The melanocyte is a cell with dendrites which are extensions, similar to branches of a tree. Melanocytes lie in the basal cell layer of the epidermis and are triggered by inflammation and/or hormonal response. Although the number of melanocytes is similar in everyone those with darker skin types are highly reactive and easily stimulated by these triggers. The melanogenesis process starts with the activation of tyrosinase, a copper-containing enzyme. It produces melanin from tyrosine through oxidation, similar to what happens when an apple turns brown after exposure to oxygen in the air. Tyrosinase binds with tyrosine and goes through a chemical process that produces either pheomelanin or eumelanin. Pheomelanin is a reddish-yellow color and eumelanin is a brownish black color. The melanin produced through oxidation is then packaged into melanosomes which are organelles responsible for the melanin’s transport and storage. The dendrites of the melanocyte then carry the melanosomes to the keratinocytes in order to protect them against possible damage. The best outcomes for pigmentation come from a combination of home care products and in-office treatments. First and foremost, sun protection is a must for attaining and maintaining results. If a client is not willing to protect their skin from the sun, it is best not to treat them. The pigment will likely get worse if sun exposure were to occur following corrective treatments. Regardless of the type of pigmentation, the essentials are Vitamin A, Vitamin C, skin brighteners, and of course sunscreen. Vitamin A, known as a skin normalizer, has been shown through scientific research that it normalizes the healthy functions of the skin including melanin production. Scientific research has also shown that Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that reduces the effects of outside aggressors that trigger melanogenesis and also has skin-brightening properties. While tyrosinase inhibitors are most common, skin brightening products work best when various ingredients are used to stop the multiple steps of pigment production. Some additional ingredients include biobenefity, princess care, clariju, neem leaf liquid, and honeybush extract. Science has also shown that these ingredients work on other aspects of the process including inflammation, the transfer of melanin to the melanosome, and the melanosome transfer to the keratinocytes. Addressing all the steps of the melanogenesis process will give you the best chance of combating this stubborn condition.
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Microcurrent and ATP
Microcurrent is a modality in which a low-level electrical current is used to mimic the effects of the current flow of the body. It was first used in the 1970s to treat Bells-Palsy, a condition that causes drooping around one eye. It was approved by the FDA as a muscle stimulator in the early 1980s. Microcurrent has also been used therapeutically for wound healing since the 1980s. A common use of microcurrent today is for the appearance of skin rejuvenation. Benefits of microcurrent include reducing the look of fine lines and wrinkles, improving the appearance of muscle tone, increasing the effects of circulation, and promoting the effects of lymphatic drainage. The combination of benefits results in an overall improvement to the look and healthy appearance of the skin. Scientific evidence shows that microcurrent works by stimulating the production of adenosine triphosphate or ATP. ATP is produced in the mitochondria which is considered the powerhouse of the cell. It is responsible for the use and storage of cellular energy, or more commonly known as ‘energy currency’. Similar to how gas is fuel for a car, ATP is like fuel for our cells. ATP is created from glycolysis which is the breakdown of glucose. The glucose gets broken down into pyruvate where it enters the mitochondria, gets oxidized and makes ATP. This process is known as the Krebs cycle. The more ATP created, the more energy supply the cells will have. Scientific studies prove that ATP is essential for most cells to function properly. ATP is involved in muscle contraction, nerve transmission, protein synthesis, cell to cell communication, and much more. It helps with all metabolic processes and triggers the production of collagen and elastin. Anyone can benefit from an increase in ATP. The creation of ATP decreases with intrinsic aging, our natural aging process regardless of the environment. ATP production requires 4 hydrogens + 2 oxygens + 2 electrons, more commonly known as water. Microcurrent “charges” the cells creating a polarity difference, which drives water in. The increased water makes more hydrogen, oxygen, and electrons available to produce more ATP. Hydration also diminishes inflammation through the removal of toxins. For optimal results, it is recommended that clients stay hydrated by increasing their water intake before their microcurrent treatment. Microcurrent treatments require good conduction between the negative and positive poles. More hydration allows for better conductivity and more opportunity for the water to be driven into the cells, ultimately creating more ATP. When it comes to esthetic treatments with microcurrent, the right amperage makes a difference. If the current is more than 100 microamps, it has been shown that it can deplete ATP opposed to creating it. Microcurrent is a great treatment to fight the signs of aging skin when realistic expectations are given. A series of at least six to twelve treatments should be performed one to two times a week to see the true, cumulative benefits. As well as proper hydration, clients should be informed to use sconce- based clinical home care products to support the results they are receiving in-office. Products including Vitamins A, C, E, peptides, and hyaluronic acid will help improve a firmer appearance, add topical hydration, and promote a healthy-looking skin. All around, microcurrent with the right home care can help provide a more youthful, rejuvenated appearance. Bio Natural Medical / Residental / Researches / Microcurrent therapy or TENS? (bnm-medical.com) Keratinocytes mediate innocuous and noxious touch via ATP-P2X4 signaling | eLife (elifesciences.org)
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Cosmetic Needling
What is this new craze micro needling that everyone is talking about? Well, the truth is, it’s not new at all. Although micro needling, in the medical sense, was first introduced in 1905, Cosmetic Needling was not introduced until 1995, and has been a buzz word ever since, gaining more and more momentum. The increase in popularity was due to the enhanced results that are achieved when one incorporates Cosmetic Needling to their skin care regimen. When we apply our skin care topically, the amount of those ingredients that will actually get delivered to the skin will be dependent on the thickness of the stratum corneum and the ability for that ingredient to pass the lipid barrier of our skin, which can be as low as 2% in some cases. When adding Cosmetic Micro Needling, that number can increase over 80% of ingredients being delivered to the skin. When Cosmetic Micro Needling, we create microscopic channels in the stratum corneum of the skin which does not hurt and will not damage the skin when done correctly with the proper needling roller. The sole purpose of Cosmetic Needling is to allow for enhanced effectiveness of topically applied ingredients. The skin is the largest organ of the body and our first line of defense. The Epidermis is 0.1-0.2mm in thickness, as thin as a sheet of paper, and our Stratum Corneum which is our true protection barrier is even thinner at 0.01-0.02mm. Although this layer is very thin it impedes the absorption of chemicals and water soluble ingredients, so we need to rely on other methods and tools in order to get ingredients not just on the skin but to make true effective changes to the look and feel of the skin. Are all needling instruments the same? Absolutely not! There are certain things to look out for when looking into using a Cosmetic Needling roller. First, experience, research, and knowledge behind the company are important factors to consider. Second, manufacturing standards-Not all Cosmetic Needling rollers are manufactured in the same safe, high standard as others. For example, the length of the needles should not be too long as to hurt, should feel comfortable, and also should be made of high quality surgical stainless steel. Third, the quantity of needles on the roller matters so that it is able to create the micro channels effectively in the stratum corneum. Cosmetic Needling should be done in the evening hours only, since the micro channels stay open for a couple of hours after. To reduce the risk of any damage, it is safer not to roll before direct exposure to UV radiation, application of makeup, or sunscreen. Cosmetic Needling should be introduced slowly by beginning every third night, then every other, then eventually every night. Cosmetic Needling depth is categorized as any length between a .1mm- .3mm with the most popular length being .1 or .2 mm. At night, after cleansing and toning, needling should be done on dry skin. In order to get the best concentration of micro channels in the skin, it is best to roll in a 3 fold pattern: vertical, horizontal, and diagonal. This will allow for better effectiveness of ingredients. After Cosmetic Needling, the roller should be rinsed under hot water then carefully placed to dry with needles not touching a hard surface. They should then be soaked in a designated cleansing solution once a week for deeper cleaning. Cosmetic rollers are never to be shared; they are for individual use only. The type of ingredients and formulations that are used after rolling are vital for not just how the skin will tolerate it but for making efficacious results. Using safe formulations such as fat soluble forms of vitamin A and C, growth factors, and peptides will not only ensure that the skin will not become irritated or react in a negative way, but it will assist in improving the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, scarring, and lax skin. Histologies of the skin have shown an improvement in the appearance of the thickening of the stratum corneum by 100% and a more compact stratum corneum when incorporating cosmetic needling with these skin friendly forms of vitamin A and C . If you’re looking for a non-invasive, safe, effective tool to use at home, then join the Cosmetic Needling craze and see results for yourself! Toni Lee Roldan-Ortiz LE, LC
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Chemical Peel Benefits
Exfoliation Exfoliating the skin to improve its appearance dates back to ancient Egyptians and is still popular today. Several methods using everything from mineral scrubs to chemicals have been used in different cultures to treat the skin.1 The cosmetic benefits of alpha hydroxy acids were discovered when sour milk, containing lactic acid, was used in baths to soften the skin. In the mid-1800s, the use of aggressive exfoliation methods was introduced to treat various skin conditions. These sometimes-extreme methods were successful, but at an expense. The more aggressive the treatment, the higher the risk of side effects and complications. Today, we see a surge in mild to moderate chemical peeling techniques as providers and clients look more toward progressive treatments as opposed to aggressive treatments. Cellular Turnover Cellular turnover is a natural process during which dead skin cells are released from the stratum corneum of the epidermis and are replaced with new cells from the basal layer of the epidermis. In healthy skin, cells turn over approximately every 28 days until the age of 30, after which this natural exfoliation process decreases at an estimated rate of about ten days per decade.2 This decrease in the skin’s natural exfoliation can contribute to fine lines, wrinkles, acne, and a dull, dry appearance. It is well known that chemical peels exfoliate keratinized cells from the outer layers of skin. This occurs as acids breakdown protein structures, known as desmosomes, that anchor cells to each other. An equally important function of exfoliation is to create a controlled wound response. When skin responds to the drop in pH, it releases growth factors that trigger the production of new cells, including fibroblasts, resulting in a healthier appearance. Stimulating the rate of skin exfoliation in a controlled manner can reduce superficial imperfections while simultaneously building healthier-looking skin structure. Benefits Chemical peels are beneficial for the appearance of many skin conditions including aging, acne, hyperpigmentation, and even sensitive skin. Visible signs of aging skin are improved by increasing the rate of exfoliation and triggering the benefits of collagen production. Those with acne also benefit from the reduction of dead skin cells since they are one of the contributing factors to breakouts. The low pH of the acid also fights bacteria and reduces the build-up of oil. Hyperpigmentation is formed when melanocytes produce melanin to protect keratinocytes. Chemical peels help reduce the signs of hyperpigmentation by exfoliating stubborn melanin-filled cells. Sensitive skin is usually indicative of an impaired barrier. Chemical peels improve the effects of the barrier by getting rid of damaged cells and stimulating the benefits of the production of new healthy cells. There are various levels of peeling including superficial, medium, and deep. Superficial peels effect the epidermis, medium-depth peels reach the papillary layer of the dermis, and deep peels reach the reticular layer of the dermis. Stronger isn’t always better, especially when it comes to peels. Many superficial peels, when performed as directed, have the same great benefit without the increased chance of side-effects. There is a lot to learn to be proficient in chemical peels including the properties of various acids, percentages, and pH. A thorough training on chemical peels is necessary to ensure optimal results and to reduce the chance of potential complications. When performed correctly, chemical peels offer great value to the appearance of all skin conditions. HJ Brody et al, A history of chemical peeling, Dermatologic Surgery, 26 (5), 405–409 (2000). MA Farage et al, Characteristics of the aging skin, Adv Wound Care (New Rochelle), 2(1), 5–10 (2013).
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Vitamin ‘A’mazing
The Importance of Vitamin A Vitamin A is an essential nutrient needed by the body for vision, growth, reproduction, immunity, and skin health. It belongs to a family of organic chemicals called retinoids. In the 1930’s it was first suggested that aging skin is directly caused by a vitamin A deficiency. Then, in the 1950’s, professor Cluver of South Africa proved that vitamin A levels in the skin are depleted with sun exposure. Evidently, Vitamin A is an essential ingredient needed to keep the skin functioning at its optimal level. It also needs to be replaced topically every day due to the effects of the sun and depletion through sun exposure. There are several forms of vitamin A that are used in skin care including retinoic acid, retinaldehyde, retinol, retinyl palmitate, and retinyl acetate. Various Forms of Vitamin A Retinoic acid, only available in prescription medications, is the form that the DNA in our cells utilize. When retinoic acid is applied directly to the skin it can create inflammation and cause sensitivity. This can make some clients think it is more effective, but that is simply not true. Eventually, all forms of vitamin A applied to the skin convert to retinoic acid. Retinaldehyde, commonly called retinal, is only one step away from retinoic acid in the metabolic process of converting. When retinal is applied topically, virtually all of it is converted to retinyl esters only a fraction are converted to retinoic acid (Eiselen, 2015). Retinol is the most commonly used form of vitamin A in professional and over the counter products. The majority of topically applied retinol is also converted to retinyl palmitate, leaving a small amount left to eventually convert to retinoic acid. Retinol works effectively but can also cause irritation to the skin if vitamin A receptors on the cells are not built-up slowly. For this reason, it is best to use after building up on the ester forms of vitamin A which include retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, and retinyl propionate. They are much gentler on the skin but still as effective. The esters are stored in the liver, skin, and cells. More than 80% of all vitamin A in the skin is in the form of esters, while other forms each constitute about 3% of the total vitamin A in the skin. (Eiselen, 2015) Essentially, all forms of vitamin A have the same effects as retinoic acid if the dose applied is equivalent. (Eiselen, 2015) Benefits of Vitamin A Retinoids are essentially known as skin normalizers; they regulate all the healthy functions of the skin. Topical application of vitamin A reduces hyperpigmentation as melanin becomes more evenly distributed. Vitamin A improves barrier function which is essential for protection and hydration. The appearance of fine lines and wrinkles are reduced due to the stimulation of fibroblasts promoting collagen and elastin production. Those with acneic skin conditions also benefit from Vitamin A since it regulates sebum production and improves cell turnover. It supports the immune functions of the skin which is necessary to fight off potential invaders. Retinoids potentiate the growth of basal cells, causing a thickening of the epidermis. There are several ingredients that improve the appearance of the skin, but vitamin A is the true skin vitamin needed by everyone, everyday to maintain healthy, youthful skin!
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Acne Alternatives
Acne effects virtually everyone at some point in their lives, making it the most common medical skin condition according to the Academy of Dermatology. There are four different stages of acne that range from mild to severely inflamed. Grades I and II acne are considered acne simplex and grades III and IV are considered acne vulgaris. Acne simplex is made up of open and closed comedones with occasional papules and pustules, but overall, the skin isn’t inflamed. Acne vulgaris consists of several papules and pustules with the possibility of nodules and cysts and is characterized by inflammation. Acne is ultimately formed by a combination of dead skin cells, sebum, and bacteria; often accompanied by inflammation. Sebum is increased when androgens, or male hormones, are stimulated. Sebum gets mixed with keratinized cells that have built up in the follicle, this makes an excellent environment for bacteria to colonize. The bacteria known to contribute to acne were previously known as propionibacterium acnes or p.acnes bacteria; in recent years the name has been changed to cutibacterium acnes or c. acnes bacteria. It has been postulated that those with acne have more bacteria than those with clear skin. New research shows the number of c. acnes bacteria is similar amongst all individuals, inflicted with acne or not. The differences would be in the phylotypes or subtypes; it is more about equilibrium between the phylotypes and the microbiota. The microbiota consists of microorganisms that that play critical roles in protection against the invasion of pathogens. Remember the skin is the body’s first line of defense. C. acnes bacteria make up about 90% of the microbiota in the pilosebaceous units of the face, scalp, chest, and back. This is due to the anaerobic nature of the bacteria being able to thrive in an oil rich environment. C. acnes bacteria play a role in fighting potentially harmful bacteria including Staphylococcus epidermidis, Streptococcus pyogenes, and Pseudomonasspecies. They also help the skin to maintain a low pH by releasing fatty acids, however those fatty acids are also contributors to inflammation. This brings the use of antibiotics for acne treatment into question due to the possibility of antibiotic resistance. There are several options when it comes to treatment plans for those with acne. Most providers agree that before anything else, it is essential to have a good home care regimen that addresses all the contributing factors to acne. There are some powerhouse ingredients that are proven to improve the appearance of acne including vitamin A, salicylic acid, lactic acid, and tea tree oil. Vitamin A is an essential ingredient for all skin types, it normalizes all the healthy functions of the skin. For acne in particular, vitamin A increases cell turnover which reduces the chance of follicular build-up. It also regulates sebum production. Salicylic acid is another necessary ingredient for the treatment of acne. It is a lipid-soluble exfoliant, which allows it to penetrate the follicle and clear it of debris. Salicylic acid also has anti-bacterial properties by lowering the pH of the skin. Lactic acid works well with salicylic acid, it is another exfoliant that works by ridding the follicles of dead cell build-up. Tea tree oil is an effective essential oil that fights bacteria and reduces inflammation. Home care with a combination of these ingredients help to clear acne without the potential side effects of antibiotics.
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Introducing Environ's New Focus Care Youth+ Seriénce™ Night Serum
PRESS RELEASE Mashpee, MA • JULY 2021: Modern day life is fast-paced, overwhelming and demanding. Mental, emotional and physical stress is pervasive and inevitable. Advances in neuroscience and cosmetic research continues to reveal infinitely more about the complex and fascinating connection between the brain and skin1. These discoveries combined with Environ’s extensive skincare research have perfectly primed the development of another ground-breaking innovation that builds on an extraordinary scientific legacy to shape the future of beauty for modern day consumers. INTRODUCING:ENVIRON'S NEW FOCUS CARE YOUTH+® SERIÉNCE™ NIGHT SERUM The first of its kind advanced overnight booster developed to target the negative long-term effects of stress to reveal serene, luminous and youthful-looking skin. CORTISOL IS THE BODY'S INSTANTANEOUS RESPONSE TO STRESS The skin is an immediate stress perceiver as well as the target of stress responses when life’s “overload” triggers both the brain and skin to release stress hormones such as cortisol2. In the case of prolonged exposure to external and internal stressors (emotional, physical and mental stress, pollution, smoke, sleep deprivation, UV exposure), skin doesn’t stop producing cortisol. Compounded over time, high concentrations of this primary stress hormone is scientifically shown to compromise immunity and threaten skin barrier functioning which can result in a dull, fatigued appearance and aggravated signs of aging such as lines, wrinkles and loss of elasticity. BREAKTHROUGH FORMULATION:MALACHITE-NEUROPEPTIDE COMPLEX Seriénce™ Night Serum is formulated with an intelligent Malachite Neuropeptide Complex scientifically proven to protect, reset, relax and reconnect the appearance of the skin, night after night. Scientific research has shown that: Malachite Extract*Known for centuries as a powerful stone of transformation, Malachite Extract offers potent antioxidant benefits scientifically proven to boost the benefits of skin immunity and defense against environmental stressors. Neurophroline™*A rapid, responsive calming neuropeptide derived from Wild Indigo Seed Extract is scientifically proven to transform the appearance of dullness into youthful-looking luminosity and counteract the negative effects of stress hormones in the skin. Argireline® Amplified*This all-in-one peptide is scientifically proven to target the effects of fatigue and post expression muscle relaxation to visibly smooth and improve the signs of lines and wrinkles for a beautifully relaxed, serene-looking appearance. Matrixyl® Morphomics™*A hard-working peptide that is scientifically proven to smooth the appearance of frown lines, marionette lines, nasolabial folds and crow’s feet by assisting to re-establish the benefits of vital skin connections and rebuild the effects of an optimally functioning network.Environ promotes a progressive and integrative approach to counteracting the harmful effects of stress offering the best opportunity for improvement in the quality of life and the appearance of skin. The skin speaks for what the mind and body feels. Self-care in today’s world is essential.
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The Latest in Anti-Pollution Skin Care from Environ® Skin Care
MASHPEE, Mass., Jan. 15, 2021 /PRNewswire/ -- DermaConcepts™, the exclusive U.S. Distributor of Environ® Skin Care, is excited to announce the launch of the new Focus Care Comfort+ Anti-Pollution Spritz and Anti-Pollution Masque. Born from extensive scientific research and the constant pursuit of developing best-in-class skincare, the two new Anti-Pollution innovations are formulated with highly intelligent ingredient combinations that offer the benefits of complete protection against the harmful effects of pollution, for beautiful, healthy-looking skin. Life has changed, but the world hasn't stopped. Living the new normal is pressurized, and consumers are time deprived, constantly connected to digital devices and exposed to high levels of stress. The harmful effects of numerous indoor and outdoor pollutants are on the rise and are scientifically shown to cause significant damage to the skin. Vehicle fumes, cigarette smoke, particular matter, heavy metals, harmful chemicals and other pollutants in combination with UV blue light and infrared irradiation is known to induce oxidative stress and a destructive chain of free radicals, leading to increased signs of skin sensitivity, premature skin aging, skin discoloration, dryness, dullness and roughness. Luckily, however, Environ's powerful approach builds on the brand's pioneering skincare philosophy of vitamin A combined with targeted solutions to future-proof the appearance of skin to help combat such harmful effects. Environ Focus Care Comfort+ Anti-Pollution MasqueExperience the purifying effects of Environ's new multi-functional charcoal masque, formulated with Japanese charcoal and special botanicals to help absorb pollutant impurities, normalize and hydrate the appearance of skin, leaving it feeling revitalized and smooth. Environ Focus Care Comfort+ Anti-Pollution SpritzThis lightweight, invisible breathable shield offers the benefits of complete protection with a scientifically perfected blend of Anti-Pollution ingredients and high potency antioxidants to help counteract the harmful effects of pollution. Benefits of the ingredients:- Lightweight, invisible breathable shield- Rebalances the effects of skin microbiome- Blue light free radical defense- Strengthens the benefits of the skin's resistance- Supports a healthy-looking skin barrier Ingredient Focus:Scientific research has shown that- POLLUSTOP® assists to form a physical surface barrier to help protect the skin against the effects of atmospheric, UV and urban pollution.- ACTIBIOME® is a scientifically advanced ingredient complex that assists to rebalance the effects of the biodiversity and homeostasis of the skin's microbiome.- HIGH POTENCY VITAMIN C COMBINED WITH A SPECIALIZED PLANT EXTRACT assists to counteract the effects of free radicals induced by blue light.- A highly CONCENTRATED PHYTONUTRIENT PLANT EXTRACT is scientifically shown to deactivate pollution's effects and enhances the benefits of the skin's resistance to pollutants.- NIACINAMIDE is a powerful antioxidant, which assists to repair and protect the effect of the skin barrier from past and future damage. About DermaConcepts™DermaConcepts is a United States distributor of aesthetic products, professional training programs, and the exclusive U.S. distributor of Environ Skin Care, offering best-in-class and first to market skin care products and technology. Founded in 1994 by Rob and Carol Trow, the company is proud to offer product lines which are world leaders in science-based and results- oriented skin care. In addition to exclusive distributorships, DermaConcepts offers industry leading education, training, and marketing support with an innovative business model for physicians, med spas, and wellness centers.
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Why are Peptides in Skin Care Products?
We talk about peptides a lot, and our skin care ranges are packed with them, but how much do you really know about peptides, and why are they so important in skin care anyway? Here’s a closer look at peptides and why we feature them in so many of our advanced skin care formulations. What is a peptide? Peptides are short chains of amino acids that act as building blocks for proteins in your skin. Proteins are important because they are the foundation of your skin, its supporting structure, if you will. The skin proteins we’re talking about are collagen, elastin and keratin. These essential proteins help your skin maintain its youthful-looking texture, strength and resilience. Why are peptides in skin care? Peptides are essentially smaller versions of proteins, making them more easily delivered to the skin and body than larger proteins. Peptides act like little messengers, triggering the skin to increase the benefits of more collagen and elastin. That’s why it makes sense to pack skin care formulas with specific peptides to encourage youthful-looking skin. What are some examples of peptides in skin care? Focus Care Youth+ Peptide Enriched Frown Serum contains three wrinkle-fighting peptides to help prevent the look of fine lines and wrinkles on the forehead and around the mouth. This results-driven serum also helps reveal the appearance of refreshed and relaxed skin. Youth EssentiA Vita-Peptide Eye Gel is packed with vitamins A, C and E, antioxidants, peptides and hyaluronic acid technology to help boost the effects of hydration around the delicate eye area and enhance the look of firmer, plumper, smoother skin. Youth EssentiA Vita-Peptide Intensive Serum 4 Plus is formulated to help improve the overall look of skin. This concentrated serum contains a synergistic combination of vitamins, antioxidants and peptides to help reveal the appearance of younger- and smoother-looking skin. There are many other peptide-enriched skin care formulas to discover! To learn more, it’s time to contact your local Environ stockist by calling 877.337.6227 today!
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