Blog
De-Hydration
By: Shawna Akin, Master Educator at DermaConcepts A few years back I remember reading an article in a popular women’s magazine about what Danish women do to minimize skin dehydration during the long, cold Scandinavian winters. It seemed like pretty reasonable advice: use a heavy moisturizer after gentle cleansing and drink plenty of water. However, from a skin physiology standpoint, this could actually make skin even more dehydrated, tight, and dry feeling. Our skin is a highly sophisticated organ governed by the perfect orchestration of skin cell signaling and response. Wearing a heavy moisturizer can confuse this highly sophisticated signaling; by relaying information to the cells below that they ‘have it covered.’ Therefore, as soon as the heavy topical moisturizer wears off, the skin is even more dehydrated and uncomfortable feeling. Science provides us with the understanding that dehydrated skin stems from its impaired barrier function, not a direct result of harsh environmental exposures. The moisture content of the skin is regulated by highly complex mechanisms metabolically and structurally. Genetics determine how much sebum you produce, however, sebum is only one of the components that comprise the barrier function of the skin. Ceramides from the epidermal bi-layers emulsify sebum with secretions from the sudoriferous glands contributing to the establishment of the acid mantle. However, much of the true water content of the skin is the result of the ideal differentiation of keratinocytes from healthy basal stem cells as they transform into mature corneocytes and from the natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) and hyaluronic acid created by fibroblasts in the dermis. All of these components have to be in place and working in perfect synergism for the skin to meet its moisture requirements as well as prevent trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). Therefore, the most effective way to address skin dehydration is to first normalize the skin metabolism and function by fortifying the keratinocytes’ journey to terminal differentiation with skin-friendly, fatty forms of vitamin A. Vitamin A is the dominant molecule in skin cell DNA regulating proliferation, differentiation, and specialization. When vitamin A is missing from the skin cell’s ‘pantry,’ things tend to start to fall apart. It’s important to know that the vitamin A, as well as other important molecules such as vitamin C, in exposed areas of our body is depleted every time we go outside into light. Therefore, we must replace vitamin A every day, rain or shine. This is the only way we can restore barrier function from a physiologic standpoint, not just temporarily alleviating the symptoms of dehydrated skin. Vitamin A will, given time, help to reestablish the barrier’s composition and metabolism remedying dehydration. Because our skin is designed to be an organ capable of adapting to its environment, once it has enough vitamin A, it needs to normalize and restore a healthy functioning barrier. It will be equipped to provide and maintain moisture from the inside-out. Of course, we always have to take into consideration individual factors such as skin type, sex, age, lifestyle, diet, medications, etc., as well as the time it will take to build up the cutaneous reserves of vitamin A in deficient skin. Accordingly, we can address the immediate symptoms of dehydration with specific boosters that support the skin’s own natural barrier function: Ingredients such as niacinamide, ProVitamin B5, hyaluronic acid, jojoba oil, olive-derived squalane, shea butter, lactic acid, and pharmaceutical-grade lanolin to name a few. And always remember to check for improper cleansers, swimmers exposed to chlorinated pools, hot yoga goers, and other things that may disrupt the lipid bilayers. Always and forever skin condition detectives! Children generally don’t suffer from dehydrated skin. Dehydrated skin develops over time with the cumulative cutaneous deficiency of vitamin A as well as environmental assaults. Ultimately, the skin is designed to take care of itself better than we can ever do as professionals. We just need to understand and provide what is missing for the skin to regain its optimal health from the inside-out. As professionals partnering with DermaConcepts, the official Distributor of Environ® skincare in the USA, we have the perfect selection of ingredients in effective formulations to help our customers who suffer from dehydrated skin. First and foremost, we must recommend the appropriate step-up vitamin A core product, followed by a booster from our Focus Care Moisture Range. Focus Care Moisture Range’s star booster option is, Super Moisturizer, which delivers hydration prompting, lock-in moisture properties, soothing panthenol, and is rich in fatty acids and anti-inflammatory Shea Butter. The Alpha Hydroxy Night Crème, with the activity of low-level lactic and glycolic acids, compacts the stratum corneum and reveals more hydrated skin. HA Serum baths thirsty skin in low molecular weight hyaluronic acid providing immediate relief. Lastly, the Vita-Antioxidant Hydrating Oil Capsules, with the moisturizing and anti-inflammatory ingredient, beta-sitosterol, as well as powerful antioxidants such as green tea make it a key hydration booster for travel or outdoor extremes. Focus Care Range boosters provide needed immediate hydration while the vitamin A core products do their magic of getting the skin back on track. Never fear, hydration is here to stay!
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The Science Behind Environ
By: Shawna Akin, Master Educator for DermaConceptsProf. Des Fernandes' research into skin health reveals that vitamin A & broad spectrum antioxidants are the best strategies in the fight against photoaging; mitigating the effects of free radical damage and delaying the shortening of telomeres, thus, staving off pre-mature cellular senescence (skin cell suicide). Prof. Des developed Environ’s core powerhouse formulations, the step-up vitamin ranges, to provide these non-negotiable ingredients and much more. He included ingredients such as green tea, niacin, hyaluronic acid, robust polyphenols such as resveratrol, scientifically proven peptides, as well as growth factors in their naturally perfect ratios; all are harnessed to make the real changes in the appearance of the skin. Decades ago, Prof. Des understood it is necessary to adhere to certain physiological principles in order to normalize and rehabilitate damaged skin cells. He knew it is not a single ingredient or category that wins the race, but the synergy of many. First, by providing the essential molecules vitamins ACE & D we can build the perfect engine; all the parts work in sync under the pristine direction and coordination from the information processing system, vitamin A. Each carefully chosen ingredient in foundational skin formulations is designed to be nourishing and create the ideal formula to ensure the skin's top performance from birth to death, reliably delivering healthy-looking and radiant skin. Prof. Des adheres to the scientific method in everything he brings to the industry. ‘Des-ciples’ agree that vitamin A, the single most important molecular signaller, as well as broad spectrum antioxidants and bioactive peptides, synergistically play a major role in the look and feel of skin repair, regeneration and preservation. Prof. Des always manages to be lite-years ahead of the pack. He also said photo-damaged skin is indeed diseased skin and the worst form of sun damage is skin cancer. These scientifically researched ideas are the roots of Environ, focusing on the health and well-being of the skin.Here is the science behind Dr. Des' 30 plus years of research and skin care philosophy. Vitamins: A-repair of DNA B-enhances epidermal growth and repair in parallel with vitamin A, controls melanosomes transfer to the keratinocyte C-helps the migration of the fibroblast, a major radical fighter, slows down reverses photoaging, tone & elasticity are improved D-acts as a natural SPF Vitamin C has limited activity on DNA itself, but stimulates at least four genes related to collagen and particularly elastin production as well as playing a critical role in the maintenance of a mature collagen network. Vitamin C effects pigmentation in two different ways; it counteracts the oxidative process within the melanocyte by binding to the reactive oxygen atoms that drive the production of pigment. It also inhibits the metabolism of tyrosine into the end product, melanin, in two places. Vitamin C, used in conjunction with vitamin A, is known to improve the tethering down of scars, when applied with the combined technology of iontophoresis and sonophoresis. Vitamin C is a tricky molecule to get into the skin due to its water solubility, however, forms such as magnesium (sodium) ascorbyl phosphate are suitable for iontophoresis. Ascorbyl tetra- isopalmitate, ascorbic acid wrapped in fat (palmitic acid) passes through the lipid bi-layers and cell walls with ease allowing for use on delicate skins in high concentrations. Vitamin E protects us from the harmful rays of UVA by deactivating free radicals before they do damage to the cellular membrane and the degradation of intracellular components. Vitamin E has also been shown to lengthen the life of skin cells by delaying the shortening of telomeres. Vitamin E is recycled by vitamin C and when used along with betacarotene, creates the brilliant antioxidant network that allows endogenous antioxidants to recycle one another. This synergy of molecules helps to restore levels of intrinsic anti-oxidants in the skin cell such as alpha lipoic acid, coenzyme Q10 and glutathione. Glutathione can only exist inside the cell despite many trying to sayotherwise. Vitamin D shares receptors for many genes with vitamin A. When levels of vitamin A & D in the skin are ideal, our cells function much better. The precursor to vitamin D, dihydrochoesterol, is a chromophore for UVB. With UVB stimulus we can manufacture vitamin D3 in the skin. Unfortunately, too much UVA will destroy vitamin D3. Practicing sun-sense is the healthiest and safest way to get our vitamin D3 whilst improving our immunity and outlook on life. Another important molecule is resveratrol, known to hasten wound repair, promote more collagen and elastin, down-regulate melanocyte activity, release epidermal growth factors, improve skin cell architecture whilst protecting skin from UVB damage. Polyphenols are some of the most effective antioxidant molecules available, including rooibos tea, honeybush tea extract and green tea. This synergy of the tea-trilogy makes for a powerful UV protector. Rooibos tea is indigenous to South Africa and contains a unique polyphenol called aspalanthin, along with many other powerful molecules such as flavonoids and flavones such as quercetin which are more active than vitamin C in its radical quenching effects and is not deactivated by light as vitamin C is. Rooibos tea as well as honeybush tea extract, together demonstrate antioxidant effects are even higher due to the up-regulation of superoxide dismutase. In addition, Rooibus tea and honeybush tea contains numerous minerals like calcium, copper, zinc, magnesium, manganese, sodium and potassium. Blueberry extract, Pterostilbene, belongs to a large family of polyphenols, called flavonoids, that protect the blueberry plant from injury and is a close cousin to resveratrol. Pterostilbene has been shown to have suppressive effects on inflammation, apoptosis (cellular suicide), lipid regulation, melanin production, and matrix preservation in the skin. Green tea is another ingredient rich with polyphenols, containing a catechin called epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG), a potent singlet-oxygen antioxidant that prevents lipid perioxidation and restores antioxidant levels within cells (such as glutathione) as well as reducing the formation of the pyrimidine dimers that can lead to skin cancer. ECGC prevents the normal erythema response to UVB irradiation, instigates a thicker stratum spinosum, protects fibroblasts from UVA damage and reduces the activity of the enzymes that breakdown collagen. In addition, ECGC has antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. This is why entire lines have been built on the use of this wonderful compound. Rosemary is a very competent ingredient due to its ability to reduce UV damage in cells, suppresses collagenases when used in conjunction with vitamins C and E, as well as helps to preserve and protect products from microbes due it its antiseptic properties. Carotenoids such as beta carotene (precursor to vitamin A synthesis), and non vitamin ingredients lycopene and zeaxanthin are essential in the fight against UV irradiation due to their antioxidant benefits and stability. Betacarotene defends against ionizing infra-red rays that produce a huge array of free radicals as well as up-regulates the production of endogenous superstar anti oxidant glutathione. Vitamin B5, panthenol, is easily absorbed into skin cells, soothing and increasing hydration while serving as on of the most important intracellular antioxidants due to its up-regulation of glutathione, protecting the mitochondria and other intracellular organelles. Vitamin B5 also helps prevent follicular obstructions and is a popular dermatologic go-to for decades for its wound healing properties, barrier restoration and anti-inflammatory effects. Vitamin B3, niacin/nicotinamide is a water soluble B vitamin involved in skin cell energy metabolism. In addition, B3 serves as a potent anti-inflammatory, and rivals the antibacterial effects of clindamycin, at high enough percentages, rendering it an effective agent in the fight against acne. Niacin/nicotinamide interferes with the transfer of melanin from the melanocytes to the keratinocytes, helps to build keratin, and is considered a formidable radical fighter. Entire skin care lines have been built on multi tasking B3 vitamin due to it efficaciousness in the fight against troublesome skin conditions. Vitamin B12, methylcobalamin, is extremely sensitive to sunlight and easily depleted in the skin. It is important for healthy DNA synthesis and energy production in our skin cells. Peptides are amino acid chains of varying length have a crucial importance in regulating the functions of cells as co-enzymes, cytokines and grown factors. Peptides can stimulate the cell to produce ideal ratios of growth factors that work in concert with vitamin A to instruct the fibroblast to produce more and better quality collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans as well as a thicker epidermis. Peptides can also can also inhibit enzymes from destroying collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, as well as alter the production of pigment, serve as anti-oxidants, and neuro-modulators. New generation hyaluronic acid technologies assist in the skin’s own abilities to restore the benefits of the optimal level of hyaluronic acid, stimulating the effects of hyaluronic acid, neosynthesis and by sustaining its renewal. In addition, the water sphere surrounding the keratinocyte is improved. There are many more strategic ingredients Prof. Des has researched for his formulations. One has to remember that the effectiveness is not only in the ingredients but in their specific combinations and concentrations that make them efficacious and result in helping to create beautiful skin for a lifetime.
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Vitamin A
By: Toni Lee Roldan-Ortiz, Master Educator for DermaConceptsSo what is this A-mazing molecule vitamin A that everyone is talking about? Well it happens to be one of the most essential ingredients that is needed for our skin cells. Let’s dive into the how and why of this incredible A-ntioxidant. Vitamin A, which is known as the skin normalizer, comes in different forms with different names. In our industry we are quite familiar with the name Retinoic Acid (a blanket name for many different forms) and Retinol which have been the gold standards for many years as to the forms we have used. However, there are new standards as to how we use this very important molecule, and all the forms play an important role in our skin health. Let’s break it down:The metabolic form of Vitamin A, needed in the central nucleus of our cells, is Retinoic Acid. This form is important to act directly on the DNA of our cells, and normalize and regulate gene activity that controls cellular proliferation, differentiation, maturation, and essentially all cellular functionality. By now you may be thinking, so why don’t we just use this form in skin care? Well, if you have used this form of Vitamin A before, then you would know what it’s like to experience such side effects as peeling, flaking, irritation, and small red bumps. Retinoic Acid is also only used at night and in the fall and the winter due to the photo sensitizing properties that come along with this form. What that means is that we are not protected in the morning and daytime hours with Vitamin A when exposed to the sun . Let me break it down even further....We all(humans and animals)are born with Vitamin A naturally in all skin cells of our body and our liver, and every time we are exposed to the sun we deplete our own natural stores of vitamin A. The longer we are in the sun, the more vitamin A we deplete. The forms that we naturally store in our skin and in our body are called Ester fat soluble forms: Retinyl Palmitate, Retinyl Acetate, and Retinyl Propionate. Retinyl Palmitate is the form we store by up to 90% and is the form most people are highly deficient of due to exposure to the sun. If we do not have adequate stores of Retinyl Palmitate then we will have less formation of Retinoic Acid for DNA communication. These Ester forms, along with Retinoic Acid, Retinol and Retinal Aldehyde, are considered animal forms. There are also plant forms such as Alpha and Beta Carotene which are considered the mildest forms of vitamin A and generally the pre cursor to the actual synthesis of Vitamin A. We find these forms in our brightly colored vegetables and plants. Although Beta Carotene is a powerful antioxidant and can deactivate up to 1,000 free radicals and still maintain its efficacy, one will never be able to build up on adequate stores of vitamin A in the skin by just using Carotenoids. Retinol is the alcohol form of vitamin A and is considered the basic form from a chemical point of view, but since it is alcohol based it also can come with some side effects and is photo sensitizing. We generally use this form in the evening and the fall and winter as well. When it comes to vitamin A there is much to consider: the form, the absorption capability, the metabolic pathway conversion, storage, and receptor sites. Consider Vitamin A like ice cream; there are different flavors that can be sweet, salty, or perhaps bitter but at the end of the day it is all ice cream. Well, vitamin A has different forms but at the end of the day it is all vitamin A and belongs to a family called Retinoids. Our cells and skin require different forms in order to be functional, thick, healthy, and to be able to prevent conditions such as pre-mature aging, hyperpigmentation, skin laxity, dryness, acne, sensitivity, atopic conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, dermatitis, actinic keratosis, and possible skin cancer. When youthink about it, those are all conditions we see and work with on an everyday basis, which means most people have a vitamin A deficiency. When we are deficient of vitamin A we will start to see these signs of conditions which can be prevented. We will also be deficient of vitamin A receptors on the cell membrane which help to uptake vitamin A into our cells. These receptors uptake different forms of vitamin A .The only way to build up these receptors is to have adequate stores of vitamin A in the skin, and Retinyl Palmitate is the form we store in the skin by up to 90%. We will also find other forms stored such as Retinyl Acetate, Retinyl Propionate, Retinol, and Retinoic Acid but only about 3% or so. That is why starting low and going slow is preferred, to allow your vitamin A receptors to uptake in low doses until higher stores are achieved. Using vitamin A in an effective step up system would be beneficial for this reason. The metabolic pathway of vitamin A mentioned earlier is a very important natural conversion that takes place with our own enzymes that we possess. When we apply Retinyl Palmitate, Acetate, or Propionate to our skin, these Ester forms are more skin friendly and easier to absorb due to there fat content entering our lipid loving layer. Therefore, we see little to no side effects with these forms. A process called Hydrolysis takes place where these forms convert into Retinol>Retinal Aldehyde> and lastly into Retinoic Acid in the central nucleus of the cell. At this time, once the cell takes the percentage needed of Retinoic Acid, another conversion takes place converting this form back into the Ester forms, predominantly Retinyl Palmitate for storage by up to 90%. As a matter of fact most forms of Vitamin A have this ability except for Retinoic Acid itself. RA is delivered to the nucleus and then is eliminated through the body without converting into the storage form. Incorporating Ester forms in a step up system morning and night comes with many benefits and Environ’s world renowned system incorporates not only these skin friendly forms of vitamin A but also other important ingredients such as vitamin C, E, other antioxidants and peptides to protect the appearance of our skin on all levels and from the effects of depletion and damage. Environ also utilizes Retinols that are used in the evening, in fall and winter once one is already using the vitamin A step up system and on higher levels of the system. Benefits of using Environ’s Vitamin A Step up system with the fat soluble forms include: Easier delivery to our lipid layer Natural conversion into Retinoic Acid takes place High stores of Retinyl Palmitate for conversion whenever the body requires Retinoic Acid. This conversion takes place every minute of the day, but if we are deficient of Retinyl Palmitate then it is less efficient. Storage of Retinyl Palmitate protects us from the effects of UV radiation, photo damage, skin cancer, and atopic conditions Retinyl Palmitate is photo protective not photosensitizing Clients are more compliant with using because of no side effects High storage of vitamin A is achieved in a ladder step up system No prescription required Able to start low and go slow for acclimation Utilizing Vitamin A year round can ensure a healthier-looking, more radiant skin. Are you using Vitamin A?
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Misunderstanding Sun Protection
Protecting our skin from the harmful effects of the sun is essential for maintaining healthy, youthful skin. Unfortunately, there are some misconceptions that leave many people without enough sun protection. It is our job as skin care providers to put a stop to these myths so clients have proper protection and get optimal results. Sunscreen will prevent me from getting Vitamin D Vitamin D is an essential vitamin needed by our body to carry out everyday functions including immune support, bone health, muscle function, calcium absorption, and more. Our skin synthesizes vitamin D though UVB exposure; and SPF 30 sunscreen blocks about 97% of the sun’s UVB rays. This can be a concern for clients, especially those that are low in vitamin D. Research shows that normal use of sunscreen does not result in vitamin D deficiency. Not only do most people not apply enough sunscreen to stop the body from producing vitamin D, but we only need about 10-30 minutes of sun exposure to create enough of it. If someone is truly concerned with their vitamin D levels, they should have their doctor do a simple blood test and discuss the use of a vitamin D supplement. Clients can also consider incorporating more vitamin D-rich foods (like salmon, cheese and fortified milk) into their diet. Sunscreen is bad for you Several chemical sunscreens contain oxybenzone or octinoxate, ingredients that some studies suggest are endocrine disruptors. However, there are no studies that prove that these ingredients lead to any harmful effects. In fact, the American Cancer Society released a statement saying it “encourages the use of FDA-approved sunscreens,” which includes those with oxybenzone and octinoxate. Another concern with chemical sunscreens is they can be irritating to sensitive skin. For consumers who are concerned, they can choose a sunscreen that does not contain chemical filters, such as a physical sunscreen containing titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. Overall, the most important thing is that our clients wear sunscreen, whether they prefer a chemical or physical. It’s good to get a base tan before vacation Most people are aware that there is a risk of sunburn when going to warmer climates where the sun’s rays are much stronger. There is a big misconception that by getting a “base tan,” they’ll be provided sun protection on their vacation. This is simply not true. According to the U.S. Surgeon General and proven by many clinical studies, a base tan only provides an SPF of 3 or less. This is essentially meaningless in terms of sun protection. The best thing the client can do is apply SPF 30 or higher every two hours. Makeup with SPF is Enough Many people believe that using makeup products that contain SPF is sufficient to protect their skin from the sun. While makeup with SPF offers some level of protection, it is often not enough to provide adequate coverage. To ensure effective sun protection, it is recommended to use a separate sunscreen with broad-spectrum protection before applying makeup. It is well known that sunscreen use prevents skin cancer and slows the appearance of aged skin. The use of antioxidants with sunscreens should also be a priority; although sunscreens protect from UV exposure, damaging free radicals can still be created. You should also suggest the client protect all areas of the body, including the scalp. Clarifying misconceptions about sun protection is crucial for ensuring the long-term health of our clients’ skin. Remember, when using sunscreen, the benefits will always outweigh the risks!
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DF Technology
Environ products are designed to get the optimal delivery of ingredients for true benefits to the skin. They are known for their lipid-soluble ingredients, cosmetic microneedling devices, and DF technology. Lipid-soluble ingredients are often chosen since they are transported to the skin easier and gentler than water-soluble products. The main purpose of cosmetic needling is to create microchannels for products to enter the skin more effectively. DF technology, created by Dr. Des Fernandes, is low-frequency sonophoresis and pulsed iontophoresis combined for optimal product enhancement. In this blog we will focus on the science behind DF technology. Sonophoresis or ultrasound technology has been used for skin rejuvenation in aesthetic treatments after being discovered for stimulating wound repair in poorly healing skin. The physiological benefits of ultrasound are categorized as thermal, heat-producing which are used in a medical setting and non-thermal, non-heat producing used for increased product transport. The non-thermal nature of ultrasound acts to create microscopic bubbles through vibrations produced by sound waves, known as cavitation. Cavitation essentially creates small pathways in the lipid bilayers allowing products to work more effectively. Animal studies have shown that low levels of ultrasound may deliver significant levels of hydrocortisone, certain antiviral agents, and even aspirin. (1.) Ultrasound is delivered through a rapidly oscillating probe to create sound waves that are conducted to the skin through a water-based gel. Clients describe it as relaxing, and they appreciate the immediate glow to their skin. Iontophoresis, more commonly known as galvanic current, is a noninvasive technology that increases product delivery to the skin. It has proven its effectiveness for over a century. Iontophoresis works through an electric current in a continuous circuit. There must be a positive and negative electrode both in contact with the client to be effective. It works on the principle that opposite charges attract and like- charges repel, similar to a magnet. Iontophoresis only works with water-soluble products that have a positive or negative electrical charge. For instance, if you are using a positively charged product that you want to drive to the skin, you would use the positive electrode since it will push it away from the positive and toward the negative, causing it to be delivered more effectively to the skin. If you had a negatively charged product, you would use the negative electrode. Iontophoresis can be delivered though a probe or with attachments through a conductive medium. The technology is easy to use and clients remain comfortable during the treatment. The DF technology is a combination of these two product-enhancing modalities. The DF is offered in a professional strength device for the treatment room as well as a home device for clients to purchase and use at their leisure. As with all treatments, the client must be educated properly, it is important for them to know that several treatments may be needed to achieve desired results. Always check for contraindications and follow treatment guidelines for safe, effective outcomes. Utilizing methods to increase product effectiveness will enhance results and keep clients coming back.
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Sleep Effects on Skin
Sleep is crucial for our bodies, including skin, to regenerate and repair. We have a circadian rhythm, a 24-hour period responsible for biological cycles. It is like an internal clock that regulates the wake and sleep sequences of the body. This internal clock is responsible for keeping the body’s hormone levels balanced. For example, melatonin is one hormone that increases at night signaling us to go to sleep. Continuous lack of sleep not only shows on the skin, but has been linked to aging, cancer, diabetes, obesity and immune and mood disorders. The medical community generally agrees that getting seven to nine hours of sleep a night is needed for the body to function at its optimal rate. Hormones Sleep helps regulate the body’s hormones; therefore, a lack of sleep sends critical hormones out of balance to cause a host of skin and overall health issues. CortisolAlso known as the stress hormone, cortisol is released in response to fear or stress. Levels of cortisol drop during sleep, allowing the skin and other organs to regenerate before they are heightened in the morning. The body reacts in a flight or fight response to stress or a lack of sleep by triggering cortisol. An increase in cortisol can break down collagen and elastin, leading to wrinkles and sagging skin. When cortisol levels rise, it can increase oil production and inflammation, both of which are contributing factors to acne. High cortisol can also slow down the healing process, which is important for practitioners to know when performing more invasive procedures. Human growth hormone (HGH) Another hormone that is affected by lack of sleep is HGH. This hormone is activated during stages three and four of the natural sleep cycle and is responsible for normal development of the skin. When the body isn’t fully rested, it doesn’t make as much HGH, resulting in harmful effects on the skin including an impaired barrier function. A compromised barrier can result in a lack of protection, leaving the skin open to irritants, microorganisms, and other pollutants. Lack of sleep can also lead to dehydration, as the barrier is meant to hold water in and our body’s hydration levels balance during sleep. CirculationProper circulation is needed for nourishment and detoxification, and a lack of sleep can slow it down. Blood flow in the circulatory system delivers oxygen and nutrients to cells. Oxygen is necessary to replenish tissues of the body including the skin. A lack of oxygen plays a role in poor wound-healing and leaves the skin looking dull and lifeless. When blood becomes stagnant, dark circles under the eyes may also appear. The body’s natural ability to fight free radicals is decreased when there is a disruption to the natural circadian rhythm of the body. This leads to oxidative stress on the skin, can cause a breakdown of proteins including collagen and elastin, and increases inflammation as your body works hard to fight off these destructive molecules. Lymphatic Drainage The lymphatic system is a vital component of the immune system. It is responsible for eliminating toxins and waste from our bodies. The lymphatic system doesn’t have a pump like the circulatory system, so a lack of sleep combined with poor lifestyle choices, injuries or autoimmune disorders can result in a slow lymphatic response. The human body has approximately 600 lymph nodes, with about one-third found in the face and neck alone. While we are sleeping, the lymphatic system works at its optimal capacity; therefore, it is slowed down when sleep is compromised, more so if one suffers from a chronic lack of sleep. Disruption of lymphatic flow can lead to a buildup of toxins and swelling in the skin. This can cause puffiness in the face, especially around the eyes where fluid can easily accumulate. The increase in toxins can also trigger acne. Getting enough sleep is just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to caring for the skin. It is important to use a good skin care regimen to assist the skin in regeneration and repair. What is done internally and externally while sleeping determines the state of the skin when waking up.
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SMART Purchasing
The use of devices in aesthetics can boost results and build your bottom-line. Aesthetic providers are constantly inundated with new products, treatments, and devices, all claiming to be the next best thing. With all the technology available today, how do we choose? Each company boasts superior technology, quicker results, and longer lasting effects. It is important to do your own research and determine the efficacy of the products and services you provide. Prematurely endorsing an ineffective or unproven device can be damaging to your business. Here are the Five Steps to Making a SMART Purchase: Safety, Maintenance, Affirmation, Research, and Takeaway (ROI). SafetyFirst, make sure that your license allows you to operate the device that is being presented. Assuming that it is legal, check that the device is FDA cleared. This alone doesn’t mean caution isn’t necessary; there are devices that have been cleared by the FDA that show little to no benefit or even cause more harm than good. Make sure the device you are considering is from a reputable manufacturer. The manufacturer should offer proper training on the use of the device; if the company doesn’t ensure safe use by their providers, then safety may not be important to them overall. Even if the device seems easy to use, there is always a chance of complications. MaintenanceWhether it is a new device, or one that has been on the market for a long period of time, ensure that the company representatives will make themself available to you after you’ve purchased. Representatives should be accessible for continued education, as well as product and sales support. While product representatives have good reason to support their accounts and help market for continued sales, device salesmen, on the other hand, are often known for their “love them and leave them” approach. AffirmationAny new device you are considering offering to your clients should be compared against similar devices that have been tried in the past. Is it a similar device that was introduced last year? If so, what type of results did you or your colleagues see? Were there any complications reported? Looking to the past will often help you predict the future. For example, iontophoresis has a proven track record of effectiveness for product delivery, therefore, a device containing iontophoresis would likely hold more weight than a newer technology. ResearchIt is the job of the provider to research the safety and efficacy of any device considered for use on clients. There are many resources accessible through the Internet, including user and patient reviews. It is also helpful to get in contact with peers who have experience with the equipment in question to receive feedback from a trusted source. Representatives should have clinical studies, scientific evidence, and before and after pictures available. As a professional in the industry, it is your job to do your homework and investigate any devices you consider offering to your clients.Takeaway (ROI)Regardless of a device’s potential benefits, it would be an unwise decision to purchase a device that will not increase your business’s revenue. Having an expensive device that provides mediocre results would not be beneficial. Get information before the purchase on the cost of maintenance, disposables, warranties, and repairs. Some devices have a hefty price tag along with consumables that require regular replacing. Having this information available ahead of time is important to determine your potential return on investment (ROI). As a purchaser, you must always be aware of the bottom line. If you are considering adopting a new device, be certain you fully understand the treatment you are offering. Remember your clients seek your expertise because they trust that you know what is best! Use the SMART purchasing method next time you are looking to add a new device to your practice.
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Accelerated Aging
Have you ever wondered how accelerated aging occurs? There are several processes that happen with intrinsic aging including a slower cell turnover, lack of collagen and elastin, less oil production, and loss of subcutaneous fat to name a few. These age-related occurrences are accelerated by external factors, leaving the look of dull, fatigued, dry, wrinkled skin. Following, are a few reactions that occur on a cellular level resulting in accelerated aging. Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) Reactive oxygen species, or ROS, a type of free radical, are probably the most discussed contributing factor to aging skin. It is well known that free radicals are harmful to cells, and the use of antioxidants is necessary. Free radicals are atoms, molecules, or ions with unpaired electrons that are highly reactive and cause cell damage. ROS are free radicals containing oxygen. As these molecules are necessary for cellular communication, an increase causes oxidative stress which creates damage to DNA in cells, proteins, and enzymes. ROS can also produce inflammation, resulting in cross-linking of collagen and elastin. Advanced Glycation End-Products (AGEs) Glycation is the result of a sugar molecule, such as glucose, binding to a fat or protein without the controlling action of an enzyme. Although glycation occurs naturally with aging, this process is heightened when a person introduces excess sugar into their diet. When we eat sugar, it causes levels of glucose in the bloodstream to rise. This process forms advanced glycation end-products, or AGEs. AGEs cause cross-linking of fibers, including collagen and elastin, to become stiff and immobile, leading to the visible signs of aging. Wrinkles caused by glycation have a cross-hatched appearance and are most apparent around the eyes and mouth. AGEs also form a complex called Receptor-AGE (RAGE) that contributes to inflammation and increased formation of free radicals, further damaging the skin. Matrix Metalloproteinase (MMPs) There has been a lot of focus on the effects of matrix metalloproteinase (MMPs) on aging skin. MMPs are necessary enzymes in human skin that aid in the breakdown and removal of damaged proteins. For instance, collagenase is an enzyme that breaks down damaged collagen so the body can replace it with healthy collagen, a process known as neocollagenesis. As most of the body works under the theory of checks and balances, overproduction of MMPs can be harmful to proteins. MMPs are heightened by extrinsic factors and eventually these enzymes will break down healthy collagen and elastin. What can we do to slow down these damaging cellular effects? Internally, limiting unhealthy sun exposure, regular exercise, refraining from smoking, having a healthy diet, and reducing stress are all great ways to halt accelerated aging. Topically, the use of sunscreen and antioxidants including resveratrol, EGCG, vitamins A, C and E, and centella asiatica have been shown to help control the destruction to cells. Overall, it is important to discuss multiple ways to slow down the visible signs of aging with your clients for optimal results.
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Aging Eyes
Many people have caught on to how important playing up their eyes can be—after all, the eyes are known as the focal point of the face. Unfortunately, the eyes are often the first area to show signs of aging due to the difference in skin structure. The skin surrounding the eyes is up to ten times thinner compared to other areas of the face. The thinner skin around the eyes not only provides less support, but it also makes imperfections including dark circles, puffiness, fine lines and wrinkles more noticeable. There are several methods that can be used to aesthetically enhance the eye area, including medical procedures, skin care treatments, and product use at home. PreventionTo preserve a youthful appearance, protection is key, especially in the eye area. It is well known that diligent sun protection and a healthy lifestyle are the best ways to avoid prematurely aging skin. The use of UVA and UVB protective sunglasses should be recommended for optimal protection. Preventing the signs of aging around the eyes is also accomplished with topical products. The difference in structure and function of this skin is the reason that there are products made specifically for the eyes. The eye area has minimal sebaceous glands compared other areas of the face. More moisture should be applied topically to keep it soft and supple, helping prevent the appearance of aging. When choosing productsto protect the eye area, the use of antioxidants should also be incorporated to protect against further damage. Ingredients, such as vitamins A, C and E, are commonly used. Hyaluronic acid, ceramides and peptides should also be added to support the health of the skin. Topical ProductsOnce fine lines and wrinkles around the eyes, commonly known as crow’s-feet, have set in, more advanced topical products can be added to a skin care regimen. Products containing peptides that protect and trigger the production of matrix proteins, collagen and elastin are often chosen, due to their remarkable results and reduced possibility of irritation associated with their use. Neuropeptides, such as argirilene, are a great addition to eye products due to their ability to reduce the effects of muscle contraction over time. Vitamin A should also be recommended to address the appearance of fine lines on the outer perimeter of the eyes. Vitamin A is known to trigger cell turnover and increase the benefits of collagen production. The lipid-soluble forms of vitamin A tend to be the best around the eyes due to their low irritation rate. NeedlingThe use of cosmetic needling, with needle depths ranging from .1mm- .3mm, has become increasingly popular, especially for the eye area. Cosmetic needling may allow products to be delivered up to 100 times more effectively than putting products on alone. Clients can perform cosmetic needling on themselves with a roller or stamp on a nightly basis before product application. Medical Microneedling, also called Collagen Induction Therapy, is the use of small needles to create micro-channels in the skin to stimulate a wound-healing response. The needles vary in depth from .5 mm – 3.0mm. The wound response triggers collagen and elastin production resulting in thicker skin with fewer lines and wrinkles, as well as a more even skin tone. A series of microneedling treatments is commonly performed in a medical setting at three to four-week intervals. The provider will assess the skin and the condition before making recommendations as to how many treatments should be performed. Equipment-based treatmentsEquipment-based treatments, such as microcurrent and light-emitting diodes (LED), are helpful in reducing lines around the eye area. Microcurrent is known for its ability to retrain muscles using electrical current and specific movements. Clients often say they see the most improvement with lifting in the brow area when receiving microcurrent. LED works by simulating circulation and increasing the metabolism of cells, including fibroblasts, resulting in smoother skin. Proper eye protection should be worn for each treatment. Multiple treatments should be expected with microcurrent and LE; these are not one-time solutions and maintenance with topical products is necessary to preserve results. Clients with deeper set lines, who want to speed up the process, may be referred to a medical office for more aggressive treatments. Some of the more commonly used devices for treating the eye area are fractional lasers, radiofrequency, and micro-focused ultrasound. Each of these modalities use varying types of energy to heat the skin, resulting in tissue contraction and ultimately collagen stimulation. There are opposing theories about these treatments, as they can be destructive if not used properly. There are several ways to improve the appearance of the skin around the eyes from home care to medical aesthetic treatments. Each client is different and will experience various results per treatment. Some notice great benefits from the use of products alone; others may need to seek medical treatment before results are seen. Ultimately the best results can be obtained from both professional services and home care.
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Truths and Myths about Cleansing and Acne
Cleansing the skin is an essential part of a skin care regimen for all skin types and conditions; using the right product is equally important. Clients suffering from acne may not be cleansing properly, which could be due to the various advertisements promoting harsh cleansers and tools that could cause more harm than good. The following are five common myths and truths associated with acne-prone skin and cleansing. Myth: Cleansing several times a day is necessary for oily skin.Truth: Over -cleansing can strip the skin of its acid mantle, our natural occlusive barrier, leaving it dry and exposed to external irritants. The skin may also try to compensate for the oil that has been stripped away by secreting even more oil. This can start a vicious cycle of cleansing whenever the skin feels oily. Cleansing twice a day, morning and evening, is most commonly recommended with a few exceptions. Cleansing too often can also lead to irritation, rashes and/or more breakouts. Myth: Cleansing with a physical exfoliator is necessaryTruth: Many clients think if their skin is oily and acne-prone, scrubbing it is beneficial. As estheticians, we know this can cause more harm than good, and most people with acne also have inflammation. With all the advertisements for rotating brushes, harsh scrubs and even home microdermabrasion devices, it is easy for the consumer with acne to think that these products are beneficial for them. Some side-effects of over-exfoliation are increased inflammation, skin sensitivity, extreme dryness, impaired barrier function, hyperpigmentation and even potential scarring. Recommending a cleanser or toner with an alpha or beta hydroxy acid to clients with acne will assist with exfoliation without being overly aggressive. Kaolin clay is another great alternative; it is a micro-exfoliator that attaches to dead skin cells to gently remove them opposed to harshly scrubbing them off.Myth: If the skin feels dry, you don’t need to wash it.Truth: Even dry skin needs to be cleansed daily. Some people with acne experience dryness along with inflammation and even the thought of cleansing can sound irritating. They may veer away from cleansing all together if they are used to harsh cleansers or soap, which can be uncomfortable and leave the skin drier than before. There are several creamy cleansers, and even low-foaming cleansers, that are effective for cleansing without over-drying the skin. Educate your client on the importance of cleansing twice a day with a suitable cleanser that won’t dry out or irritate the skin. Remember external irritants such as pollutants we experience daily can also lead to breakouts and inflammation.Myth: Using a cream or oil-based cleanser will cause breakouts.Truth: The use of pre-cleansing oils has become increasingly popular and for good reason; oil is attracted to oil. Clients suffering from acne tend to shy away from products that are oil based, as they are often afraid it will make their skin worse. Adversely, pre-cleansing oils are excellent for oily and acne-prone skin. The oils used in these products assist in emulsifying the oils on the surface of the skin, leaving it thoroughly prepped for another cleanser to work more effectively. Pre-cleansing oils are also great for taking off stubborn makeup, which is great for acne clients that wear heavy makeup to cover blemishes. Creamy cleansers can also be a great choice for those with dry or highly inflamed skin.Myth: Harsh, drying cleansers are best for oily, acneic skinTruth: Using harsh cleansers with acne will only sensitize the skin further. As previously stated, the acid mantle needs to stay intact. Stripping away the natural oils that protect the skin from external factors (dirt, pollution, etc) can easily cause damage. It will also leave the skin dry, causing it to overcompensate and activate sebaceous glands potentially causing even more breakouts. Those with acne-prone skin tend to think the stronger the better, which is simply not true, especially in the case of skin conditions associated with inflammation.
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The Realities Of And Recommendations For Rosacea
Rosacea is a vascular disorder of the skin characterized by flushing, erythema, and telangiectasia. The visual side effects are typically prominent on the central face, including the nose, cheeks, eyelids, and forehead. Other clinical considerations in rosacea include papules and/or nodules that can lead to scarring. The one thing that all forms of rosacea have in common is chronic poor vascular hemostasis (blood coagulation). This leads to leaky vessels, pooling of blood, delayed removal of inflammatory mediators, and persistent perivascular inflammation. Prolonged inflammation leads to the formation of fibrous tissue and thickening of the skin which are characteristics of phymatous rosacea. Rhinophyma is the most common, it presents a thickened bulbous texture of the nose. Rosacea can even cause irritation around the eyes in the case of ocular rosacea. The exact cause of rosacea is unknown, but several theories have been suggested on what may trigger the vessel dilation, resulting in flushing and redness. One of the predominant, controversial theories describes a perifollicular inflammatory process that is aggravated by microbial organisms. The bacteria Cutibacterium acnes and demodex mites have been linked to rosacea and there is evidence that antibiotics targeting these organisms have proven helpful in treating symptoms. These organisms are also found in high concentration in those without rosacea, making it hard to know whether they are the cause or the effect of rosacea. 1 A neurogenic origin to the inflammatory, as well as vascular, component of rosacea can be well supported. Therefore, as revealed by Schwab et al., drugs that affect neurovascular and neuroimmune communication may be advantageous in the treatment of rosacea.2 There are many speculations surrounding the origin of rosacea that are supported by science, but none are proven to be the cause. Currently there is no cure for rosacea, making the goal for treatment to control and alleviate symptoms. Emphasis should be placed on avoiding triggers and using the right products. Using proper skin care should be a priority of the rosacea client. The use of a physical sunscreen is the first line of defense against further damage. It is postulated that sun exposure may not only be a contributing factor but may also be a cause of rosacea. Chemical sunscreens should be avoided as they can be irritating to the sensitive skin. On the same note, care must be used with makeup; mineral-based makeup is recommended due to its anti-inflammatory and sun-protective qualities. Humectants and occlusive agents used to keep the skin moisturized are essential for those with rosacea. There is evidence that shows decreased barrier function resulting in transepidermal water loss (TEWL), which is the loss of moisture through the outer layers of skin. Hyaluronic acid, panthenol, glycerine, pentavitin ®, and revidrate™ are some of the many humectants used in skin care products. While the skin absorbs this additional moisture, it should also be occluded to avoid losing moisture through the impaired barrier. Common occlusive agents that are beneficial for rosacea are lanolin, shea butter, squalane, and ceramides. Calming inflammation and the appearance of redness can be achieved through topical ingredients. Beta carotene, a precursor of vitamin A, is a powerful antioxidant with anti-inflammatory properties. Growth factors are known for their wound healing capabilities making them beneficial for sensitized skin types, including rosacea. Vitamin A is a critical ingredient needed by the skin to perform at its optimal health. Some providers are weary to recommend vitamin A since it can be sensitizing but using the right form in a step- up system allows for the skin to acclimate gradually. Antioxidants provide added protection from free radicals created by external factors, thereby shielding the skin from further inflammation. Vitamins C and E are potent antioxidants that work synergistically to fight off aggressors. Lactic acid can be used to increase cell turnover and has hydrating and brightening properties. The combination of these beneficial ingredients can help improve skin quality for those with rosacea. Although there is no cure for rosacea, products and treatments to control symptoms have come a long way and there are more constantly being discovered. The hardest part for those afflicted with rosacea seems to be avoiding triggers—which include everyday instances such as temperature changes, eating spicy foods, drinking hot liquids, and exposure to sunlight. Rosacea can be frustrating for the client and aesthetic provider alike since any improvement can be reversed when an outbreak occurs. It is important for the client to know that treatment is a joint effort between you and them, and if symptoms recur, there are a multitude of options available to help. References GH Crawford et al, Rosacea: I. Etiology, pathogenesis, and subtype classification, J Am Academy Dermatol, 51(3) 327-341 (2004). VD Schwab et al, Neurovascular and neuroimmune aspects in the pathophysiology of rosacea, J Invest Derm Symp P, 15(1) 53-62 (2011)
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Cell to Cell Communication
A cell is the smallest unit of life that makes up all living things. Cells are the building blocks of the body that carry out specific functions. They heal, repair, and reconstruct the body. We have approximately 200 different types of cells and 30 to 40 trillion cells in the body. Cells communicate to regulate cellular functions and maintain homeostasis throughout the body. Homeostasis provides a stable environment despite external changes including temperature, bacteria invasion, sun exposure, diet, and the natural aging process. Communication is an important aspect when it comes to all relationships. The same goes for the relationship between cells in the human body. Without proper communication, body systems may not function properly. Communication between cells works by a signal molecule, called a ligand, binding with a receptor. A receptor is a molecule in which a ligand can attach to carry out an action. It is similar to a lock and key; the ligand would be the key and the receptor would be the lock. Cells are constantly sending and receiving messages, not only chemical messages but mechanical and electrical as well. An example of mechanical signaling is in the case of muscle growth with exercise. Regulating heartbeat is an example of an electrical signal. The body is like one big communication network. Think of cellular communication like the game telephone, where one person sends a message through a chain of people and the last one conveys the message they heard. If you’ve ever played the game, you would notice that communication isn’t always clear, and the wrong message is often delivered. The same can happen with signaling between cells. Body systems aren’t always functioning at their optimal level due to age, illness, and/or external factors. This can cause mixed signals, over-communication, or under-communication. For example, when keratinocytes aren’t healthy, they may send signals to the melanocytes to produce pigment even if there is no initial threat. Receptors can be on the inside of the cell called intracellular or on the outside of the cell making it extracellular, depending on its solubility. For instance, peptide hormones can’t enter the cell since they are water-soluble, therefore the receptors for these hormones are on the outside of the cell. Molecules that are hydrophobic or lipid-soluble can easily penetrate the cell membrane, therefore the receptors are on the inside of the cell. An example of this would be steroid hormones. There are three steps to cell signaling. First is the reception, this is where the ligand (key) fits into the receptor (lock). The second step is transduction, the binding of the ligand and receptor activates intracellular molecules and triggers a change inside the cell. The final step is the response which produces the desired outcome. The outcome can be to influence one or more cellular processes including cell division, pigment production, collagen production, wound healing, and to fight off infection. Communication is vital to all bodily functions including those of the skin. Cell signaling helps the body maintain its pH, temperature, and energy levels which are essential to survival. The healthier we are the better chance we have that the necessary signals are communicating as they should. The same goes for the skin, feeding it with nutrients and protecting it from external elements like excess sun exposure and pollution will promote its health and essentially its appearance. Taking care of the body by supplying it with necessary vitamins and nutrients from food or other sources will help keep the cells communicating in a healthy state.
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